Phil Aynsley
For something that was destined for the tip, this mirror really has landed on its feet. If you are searching high and low for a reasonably priced large mirror, consider giving a discarded mirror wardrobe door a stylish new frame. It costs you next to nothing, and makes a great feature in your bedroom.
Gather your supplies
• Backing 2375 x 835 x 12mm plywood
• Decorative moulding (3) 66 x 22 x 2400mm oak-leaf moulding
• Outer frame (3) 30 x 18 x 2400m FJ pine
• Packer (3) 35 x 4 x 2400m Tasmanian oak (this is suitable for a 3-4mm-thick mirror)
You’ll also need
Mirror wardrobe door (here 770 x 2305mm including frame); hammer; wooden block; straightedge; power saw; cordless drill; fine-grit sandpaper; glue; 30 x 2.0mm and 20 x 1.25mm nails; tape; primer, sealer and undercoat (tinted grey); Dulux Super Enamel High Gloss in Black
Note: Adjust sizes to suit your specific mirror and plywood backing.
Here’s how…
Step 1
Turn mirror wardrobe door face- down on a bench, making sure not to put any point pressure on the mirror glass. Remove any roller assemblies from frame by unscrewing. Remove frame by carefully tapping it away from mirror with wooden block and hammer. Slide hammer on a thin piece of plywood or cardboard to protect back of mirror.
Step 2
With frame removed, this mirror is 2300 x 760mm in size. The plywood backing should be size of mirror, plus 35mm all around to allow for strip that will form rebate for mirror, plus an extra 5mm to allow for expansion and contraction. Here, overall size is 2375 x 835mm. Cut with a power saw along straightedge.
Step 3
The frame is made of 3 parts, with the decorative moulding built up with an outer frame of pine. Predrill, then glue and nail pine to moulding using 30mm nails.
Step 4
Sand edge of packers and back edge of built-up frame to round them.
Step 5
Cut composite frame to length with a 45° angle at each end to form corner mitres. The long point to long point length is same as length and width of plywood backing, here, 2375mm and 835mm.
Step 6
To join frames, predrill screw holes in top and bottom frames, perpendicular to the mitre. Ensure the joint will pull together without slipping.
Step 7
Lay out frame components face-up on plywood back, using it to make sure frame will be put together square. Lay a piece of tape on back and apply glue to the joint, then hold joint tight by taping up sides. Apply a second piece of tape around outside of corner and another piece over the top.
Step 8
Drive screw through tape across joint to hold tight. Repeat for all corners. Allow glue to set.
Step 9
Carefully flip frame over with tape still in place. Peel tape away from back surface. Predrill, glue and nail on packers using 20mm nails. (Nail near edges so nail points do not poke through face of mouldings.) The joint between frame and packers should be quite prominent from sanding the edges.
Step 10
Sand frame and edge of plywood backing, especially the corners, then give both a coat of primer, sealer and undercoat, tinted grey. Brush out well.
Step 11
When dry, sand surface lightly, then give frame and edge of plywood backing 2 coats of high gloss enamel. Allow overnight drying between coats and sand lightly between coats.
Step 12
When paint is dry, lay plywood backing and mirror on bench and align. Place frame over the top, making sure mirror sits inside rebate of frame. Move edge of whole assembly slightly off bench so you can access underside, then screw backing to frame using short screws spaced at approximate 300mm intervals. Stand mirror against wall in desired place and give your reflection a thumbs up!
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