Although I grew up in Fiji’s capital city, Suva,  I  have strong recollections of Sigatoka, the riverside town my mother is from. A two-hour drive west of Suva, the town and its valley are the salad bowl of Fiji.
I remember the abundance of vividly coloured produce on display at the town market. It was a place of raucous laughter, wild colour and incredible humidity. My favourite stop was always at the seafood vendors, and I dare say that my love affair with seafood was birthed looking down at freshly caught prawns from the Sigatoka River, laid out on large green leaves. We’d take these prawns home and make them into a simple curry to be eaten on the same day.
I still feel that prawn curry is perhaps the most Fijian of all curries. It connects the spices with the waters that brought my family to the place we have called home for more than five generations.
In a way, I’ve recreated the food story of my ancestors. I brought my memories, my recipes, and my spices with me. And now I join those with the Australian seafood that I love. The seafood from the ocean that I call home.
Ingredients
Method
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the chillies, garlic and ginger with the peppercorns and a pinch of sea salt to form a coarse paste.
Heat the ghee in a wide pan on high heat. Add the curry leaves, lime leaf, fennel seeds, cumin seeds and mustard seeds. Cook, stirring, for 1–2 minutes or until fragrant. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5–7 minutes, until softened and lightly caramelised. Reduce heat to medium if the onions are browning too quickly.
Add tomatoes and cook for 2–3 minutes or until they start to break down. Stir in the pounded chilli paste and cook for 1 minute or until aromatic.
Sprinkle in curry powder, season with salt and add sugar. Stir for 30 seconds, then pour in coconut milk, stirring. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Stir in lemon juice, then add the prawns. Simmer for 3–5 minutes, turning the prawns in the sauce, until just cooked through and opaque.
Check the flavour and adjust the salt or lemon juice to taste. Scatter the curry with coriander leaves and serve with steamed rice.

(Photography: Con Poulos | Styling: Lucy Busuttil)