Bathroom vanities can be expensive and may not quite fit the space around it. When you make it yourself however, you not only save money, but you get the exact look you want, and get it to fit perfectly in its surroundings.
WATCH: Adam builds a modern, floating-style vanity
Looking for a modern, floating-style vanity featuring plenty of practical storage and even a hidden toilet roll holder? This is the DIY for you. By using off-the-shelf form plywood you’re able to build the carcass with just one sheet. But it’s the Tassie cladding that gives this bespoke, floating vanity an expensive look and feel.
How to build your custom vanity
Gather your supplies
- 2400 x 1200mm x 17mm formply sheet
- Clever Tool standard head countersink tool 8g x 50mm
- Bugle head decking screws 8g x 50mm
- Tasmanian oak DAR: 65 x 19mm x 1.2m (3) 40 x 8mm x 2.4m (2) 20 x 4mm x 2.4m (2) 35 x 4mm x 1.2m 110 x 19mm x 1.2m 25 x 8mm x 2.4m 42 x 19mm x 2.4m (2)
- Oil-based stain blocker
- Oil-based matt clear varnish
- Exterior PVA glue
- Forstnerhinge mounting kit
- Forstner drill bit 35mm
- Full overlay hinges (4)
- Inlay hinges (2)
- Push catch (3)
You’ll also need
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Combination square
- Ruler
- Tracking saw or circular saw with fine tooth blade, clamp and saw guide
- Wide masking tape
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Electric sander and 40-grit sandpaper
- Drill
- Mitre saw
- 2mm drill bit
- Centre nail punch
- Stubby screwdriver
- Disposable gloves
- Paintbrush
- Lint-free cloths
Here’s how
Step 1
Use a tracking saw (or circular saw with fine tooth blade and saw guide) to cut a 3-5mm strip along the length and width of the formply sheet to reveal a clean new finish.
Step 2
Working from the newly cut edges, use a tape measure, square and pencil to measure, mark and label components on the formply sheet, as shown in Carcass cutting plan. Cut formply components to size with tracking saw. Cut horizontal lines first, then cut along vertical lines of the 5 panels to create component.
Step 3
To prepare to drill, measure and mark a 9mm line from edges of components C, D and F (see Carcass cutting plan). On A, B and C, mark up a vertical line 182mm in from the edge on both faces. On components A, B and E, measure and mark a horizontal line 178mm down from top edge on both faces.
Step 4
On E, measure 206mm up from bottom edge. Apply wide masking tape along the line, so 206mm depth is exposed ready for scuff sanding.
Step 5
To provide a key to attach the cladding, scuff sand external face of components A, E, F, G, H, I and J with electric sander and 40-grit sandpaper. Remove tape from E.
Step 6
Using drill with clever tool countersink drill, bit and the marked lines on A, B, C, D, E and F as a drill guide, predrill pilot holes at 50mm in from edges, then about every 100mm thereafter.
Step 7
Apply exterior PVA glue to the top raw edge of B (Base panel), then attach to C (Back panel). Insert screws through pilot holes on C, then screw tight.
Step 8
Apply glue to top and left raw edges of E (Large divider), then attach to centre of line on C and B. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.
Step 9
Apply glue to back and bottom raw edges of G (Small divider) and attach to line on E. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.
Step 10
Flip carcass onto back. Apply glue to front raw edge of E, then front edge of B. Attach F (Front panel) to glued edges. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.
Step 11
Put carcass back on base. Connect D (Right side panel) to C with glue. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.
Step 12
Apply glue to top edge of E and G, then along 3 edges of A (Top panel) where it will join the frame. Attach A to the carcass. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.
Step 13
To create hinge holes, place forstner template 30mm from edge of a door panel. Mark position, predrill holes to 10mm depth with a 2mm drill bit. Repeat on opposite side of door panel. Repeat for all door panels.
Step 14
Clamp door to bench. Insert tip of forstner bit into central predrilled hole, then bore out hinge hole. Stop drilling when forstner lines up with door panel surface. Repeat for all door panels (H, I, J).
Step 15
Attach hinges to doors. Use drill and screws supplied with hinges. Use overlay hinges on H (Right door) and J (Side door). Use inlay hinges for I (Left door).
Step 16
Attach hinge brackets to door hinges. Hold door in position to line up with frame, so brackets find position on the inner wall of carcass. Mark position of bracket screw holes. Predrill with 2mm drill bit. Remove brackets, screw onto carcass.
Step 17
Hang all doors onto brackets and adjust until doors are aligned.
Step 18
Hold push catch in position on underside of A. Push catch should contact back of door when closed. Mark drill holes for push catch, then predrill. Insert supplied screws into fixing holes, screw tight. Repeat for other 2 push catches.
Step 19
Place magnet onto end of push catch, remove backing. Shut door to align magnet. Apply pressure to magnet for 30 seconds to secure. Repeat for other 2.
Step 20
Cut Tasmanian oak lengths as listed on Cutting list with mitre saw. Sand rough edges with 80- grit sandpaper. With a 65 x 19 x 393mm piece, measure, mark and cut at 20 x 19 x 395mm with circular saw. Label the narrow piece N, for Side door cladding.
Step 21
Put on disposable gloves. Use paintbrush to apply stain blocker as a whitewash to sides and front faces of oak cladding pieces. Wait 20 seconds, wipe off excess with lintfree cloth. Allow to dry. Repeat to whitewash all raw timber edges on doors and carcass. Dab all screws too.
Step 22
Gather, sort and label oak cladding strips for doors and panels. Refer to Oak cladding assembly diagrams and Vanity assembly diagram to install.
Step 23
Working one panel at a time, apply glue liberally to back surface of each cladding piece and push tight onto the panel to spread glue and secure.
Step 24
In roll holder alcove, install cladding to base first, then back panel. Complete with sides. Sides and base cladding pieces will overhang the front.
Step 25
With a 42 x 19 x 203mm piece, cut in half for 2 pieces to 21 x 19 x 203mm. Attach these, plus the remaining 25 x 8 x 365 piece to the alcove fascia, fitting around the overhanging pieces. Hold in place with masking tape until glue sets.
Step 26
With an electric sander, chamfer inner corner oak pieces on J and H, to prevent jamming when door is opened.
Step 27
Rest roll holder (178mm) on ledge alcove.
Step 28
Apply 2 coats of varnish to all oak cladding and timber edges. Allow to dry after each coat.
Step 29
Cut a hole in top of vanity for your basin plumbing. Install vanity on the wall. Add your choice of tap, basin and countertop.
Assembly tips
- Before you begin, get familiar with the Carcass cutting plan and Vanity and Oak cladding assembly diagrams. Refer to diagrams throughout your project as needed.
- Cladding may have slight discrepancies in the thickness. Sand or cut pieces to compensate as required.
Beautifully bespoke vanity
Customise panel size and cladding pattern to suit:
- To extend your vanity width, increase the panel width of A, B and C by equal amounts to suit your bathroom size and space. Split the extended width measurement between the front doors.
- Measure the additional area (H x W) you intend to clad. Purchase, prep, then cut extra timber to size. Calculate oak cladding sizes to cover exact width of panel without making any cuts where possible.
- If cladding does not exactly fit your panel size, trim up to 5mm excess timber with a sander, or cut a wider piece of cladding to exact panel size with a circular saw.
- For a timber interior, use marine plywood as a substitute for formply. Sand all surfaces before assembly, then seal with 2 coats of oil-based varnish.
Predrill precision
- Mark screw length on drill bit with a fine marker pen. Stop drilling when marker line is level with timber surface.
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