How to build a room divider and shoe cabinet
Gather your supplies
- Tasmanian oak panels: 1200 x405 x 19mm (5) 1200 x 600 x 19mm
- Tasmanian oak lengths: 65 x 19mm x 2.4m (4) 65 x 19mm x 1.8m (17) 135 x 19mm x 3m
- 105° full overlay clip-on hinges (4)
- Push catches (2)
- Wood filler in hardwood tint
- Clear matt varnish
You'll also need
- Tape measure
- Track saw
- 46mm spacers made from offcuts
- 120-grit sandpaper
- Black paint
- Paint equipment
- PVA glue
- Nail gun with 32mm angle brads
- Builder’s square
- Combination square
- 35mm Forstner bit
- Frill with 2mm bit
- Orbital sander with 180-grit disc
- Lint-free cloth
- Mitre saw
- 10g combination countersinking bit
- 10g x 40mm square drive screws with square drive bit
How to build a shoe cabinet
Follow Cabinet components list to mark up panels, using track saw to cut. Cut 26mm strips from offcuts for plinth components. Sand with 120-grit sandpaper to remove breakout.
Paint plinth front edge black to provide a shadow feature; allow to dry. Position plinth back flush with cabinet base, add supports at ends and centre. Butt plinth front against them to create a shadow line. Apply glue, secure with nail gun.
Flip base, apply glue along back, position against backing, secure with nail gun. Apply glue to ends and divider, position, secure with nail gun.
On cabinet top, use builder’s square to mark wall cutout 210mm in from end and front edge; cut with jigsaw. Apply glue, position top flush with backing and right end, secure with nail gun.
On back of doors, use combination square to mark 22mm in from back edge, 70mm down from top and up from base. Centre 35mm forstner bit on marks to drill hinge holes to blade depth.
Position hinge cups in holes, predrill through plates with 2mm bit, secure with supplied screws. With hinge plates attached, position doors against cabinet, 5mm down from top, mark holes, predrill with 2mm bit.
Snap plates off, secure to cabinet with supplied screws. Mount doors, adjust hinges with screwdriver to straighten.
Install push catches on both sides of divider 70mm up from base, positioning plates with ridge facing back. Predrill, secure with supplied screws. Clip on catch slides.
Apply filler over brads with scraper, leave to dry. Sand using orbital sander with 180-grit disc. Wipe off dust with lint-free cloth. Use roller to seal with 2 coats of varnish, leaving to dry after each coat.
How to build a room divider
Follow Screen components list, using mitre saw to cut top and base screen plates from 2.4m and slats from 1.8m oak. On plates, use combination square to mark lines 20mm in from either side. Mark across centre for middle slat, then use 46mm spacers to mark across for 8 slats either side. Predrill 2 holes each slat with countersinking bit.
Sand slats and plates. Wipe off dust. Seal with 2 coats of varnish. Allow to dry after each coat.
Position a top plate with countersunk holes facing out. Butt a top slat against centre, secure through holes with 40mm screws. Use spacers to secure remaining slats. Position base plate to secure slats. Repeat to assemble base screen.
Cut box shelf components. Butt sides against top and base, apply adhesive, secure with brads. Sand, wipe dust, seal in 2 coats of varnish, allow to dry after each coat.
Position screens on floor against box shelf, sides flush. Measure top to base to cut 2 sides from 2.4m oak. Position sides, secure into screen plates with brads, avoid box shelf. Remove box shelf.
Predrill through cabinet to secure into floor with screws. Position screen against cabinet and wall, cut skirting. Predrill and secure screen through back of cabinet. Secure to wall through screen side.
Install box shelf using 135 x 19mm offcut to check front overhang is even. Secure to screen from inside with brads.
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