Before you flick your old character-filled door to the kerb, think about transforming it into a handy dining table – just add legs! Other than your time, the investment is in the super-slick glass-like finish, but if you want to keep your costs down, use high-gloss varnish (ask your mates for leftovers!) and an old se t of saw horse legs.
Before you begin
- Look for a door with shallow-profile detailing to reduce the amount of Feast Watson Glass Finish required for the job.
- If you wish to skip the use of Glass Finish altogether, choose a flat-faced, solid, painted timber door and coat with a hard-wearing gloss varnish for similar effect.
- Old paint may contain lead. Ensure you wear a suitable dust mask and protective eyewear when scraping and sanding. Wet-wash your work area once you’re done, place paint remnants in a sealed plastic bag and dispose through your household waste. Thoroughly wash your body and clothes immediately afterwards
You’ll also need
Screwdriver; dust mask and protective eyewear; scraper; builder’s bog; finegrit sandpaper and sanding block or power sander; tape measure; pencil; straightedge or set square; saw; drill and bits; timber screws, to suit; drop sheet; paintbrush.
STEP 1 Using screwdriver, remove all door hardware (lockset, hinges, etc).
STEP 2 Use scraper to remove loose and flaky paint.
STEP 3 Fill all holes (including lockset hole) using scraper and builder’s bog. Let dry.
STEP 4 Using sandpaper wrapped around sanding block, or power sander, lightly sand surfaces of door. Also sand builder’s bog until smooth and flush with surrounding surfaces.
STEP 5 Mark middle-point of timber rail of sawhorse using tape measure and steps pencil. Use set square or straightedge to draw a line crossways at the midpoint.
STEP 6 Using saw, carefully cut sawhorse in half, following marked line.
STEP 7 Place door on your work surface so what will be underside of table is facing up. Position sawhorse legs about 150mm from each narrow end of door (adjust to suit detailing of your door). Ensure all legs are splaying outward. Predrill, then screw legs to door.
STEP 8 Spread out drop sheet in a well-ventilated, dust-free area. Flip table so it’s now right way up and place on top of drop sheet. Using paintbrush, apply 2 coats of Prooftint to seal door. Let dry after each coat.
If you’re not using Feast Watson Glass Finish, skip the next series of steps and instead apply 2–3 coats of high gloss varnish to door top and sides. Let dry after each coat.
STEP 9 Run a strip of painter’s tape around perimeter of door, so tape sits above top surface of door by 12–15mm.
STEP 10 So you can apply the Glass Finish in 2 stages, divide door in half with a length of tape, folded back on itself into an L-profile. Apply tape so sticky side is facing the half you intend on finishing first.
STEP 11 Carefully following usage guide, mix Glass Finish in bucket. Use paint stirrer to carefully mix parts.
STEP 12 Carefully fill first section of door with Glass Finish mixture, to about 2mm coverage across main face of door. As you pour, it will slowly self-level, but you can help it a little using stirrer.
STEP 13 Once level, after at least 20 minutes, bubbles may still appear in coating. To remove these, carefully use propane torch to degas the finish, following instructions in usage guide.
STEP 14 Remove centre length of tape, then repeat Steps 11–13 to coat other half of door. Remove perimeter tape after about 5 hours, then leave product to cure for at least 24 hours. Full curing takes 7 days.