Lounging around is an art we have all perfected, whether in the boudoir or outside on the lawn. So why not combine the two by building an outdoor bed? Complete with turf and a planted bedhead, this quirky day bed adds greenery and fun to your backyard or courtyard. It will withstand the elements – and even relish the pitter-patter of rain.
A Base sides (2) 200 x 50 x 2300mm treated pine sleepers
B Base ends (3) 200 x 50 x 1400mm treated pine sleepers
C Base floor (8) 200 x 50 x 2400mm treated pine sleepers
D Bedhead sides (6) 200 x 50 x 2400mm treated pine sleepers
E Bedhead blocks (5) 200 x 50 x 600mm treated pine sleepers
F Bed frame sides (2) 200 x 50 x 2100mm treated pine sleepers
G Bed frame end 200 x 50 x 1800mm treated pine sleeper
H Bed frame braces (3) 150 x 100 x 50mm treated pine sleepers
I Long bedhead cladding (5) 86 x 19 x 2438mm blackbutt decking
J Short bedhead cladding (4) 86 x 19 x 319mm backbutt decking
K Side bedhead cladding (14) 86 x 19 x 300mm blackbutt decking
L Long bedhead capping 86 x 19 x 2448mm blackbutt decking
M Side bedhead capping (2) 86 x 19 x 324mm blackbutt decking
N Side bed capping (2) 86 x 19 x 2086mm blackbutt decking
O End bed capping 86 x 19 x 1810mm blackbutt decking
You’ll also need
Circular saw; 100mm bugle head screws for treated pine; plane; sander; Dulux Intergrain NaturalStain in Charcoal; Cabot’s Aquadeck in New Natural; 50mm treated pine screws; geotextile fabric; turf underlay; Soft Leaf buffalo turf; 20mm blue metal; premium potting mix; Hebe diosmifolia
Note: Check all components against actual unit as it is being built before cutting to size.
Cut base sides (A) and ends (B) to length using circular saw. Butt ends to sides with 1 in the middle. Predrill using a 5mm drill bit, then join using 100mm bugle head screws for treated pine.
Tip: Set your drill on low speed when driving in bugle head screws.
Fix outermost base floor sleepers (C) so they overhang base by 100mm at end and sides but are flush with head of bed. Evenly space other base floor sleepers between these and screw in.
Using bed as a handy work platform, sit bedhead blocks (E) on edge at each end of bed and 1 in the middle. Place another block at each end, running along top edge of bed flush with end blocks. Lay bedhead sides (D) on top and screw together. Turn bedhead over and repeat for other side. Put in place at head of bed so it overhangs each side by 400mm. Screw down through blocks into bed.
Plane and sand 1 side of bed frame sides (F) and ends (G) smooth. With dressed edges showing, place on temporary 200mm blocks so they butt up to underside of base floor. Screw ends to sides and through frame pieces into base floor.
Cut bed frame braces (H) from offcuts and screw them into sides and floor for extra support.
Coat bed frame and bedhead with stain. Also cut long (I), short (J) and side (K) bedhead cladding pieces to length and oil.
Sit first long cladding board on bed frame along bedhead. Use an offcut of decking to ensure it overhangs ends of bedhead equally. Continue laying boards up the bedhead, leaving a 4mm gap between each board. Fix short cladding boards under long boards so they butt up to bed frame. Screw side cladding pieces to each end so they line up with face boards.
Mitre capping pieces (L, M, N, O), allowing for a 5mm overhang to edges they sit on. Screw down into sleepers to secure.
Roll geotextile fabric into bed and bedhead. Cut so it sits below capping. Fill with turf underlay. Compact by stomping it down with your feet. Fill with more loose underlay and level with a broom so it meets underside of capping. Lay turf along bed, staggering joins, using a sharp knife to cut turf to fit. Press rolls firmly into underlay and water well.
Part fill bedhead with potting mix, plant Hebe diosmifolia or similar. Backfill with potting mix, mulch with blue metal, then water.