Problem solved: somewhere to sit your drink outside – where it won’t tip over! With its spiked leg, this table will stay upright on any soft surface. Flip the handle on its hinge to form the tabletop. And the holes for glasses and bottle? Just brilliant! Stake into the sand or lawn, set out the snacks and pour your favourite wine. Now that’s civilised.
Gather your supplies
Top, 400 x 285 x 19mm pine
Leg, 385 x 90 x 45mm pine
Mounting blocks, 75 x 30 x 15mm pine
Spike, 300 x 19mm dia. Tasmanian Oak dowel
M8 x 100mm cup head bolt and nut
8mm washer (3)
You’ll also need
Cordless drill, 44mm, 57mm and 86mm hole saws; jigsaw; sandpaper; sanding block; power saw; handsaw; 19mm spade bit; 8mm drill bit; PVA glue; 40mm screws; wood chisel; Cabot’s Stain & Varnish, spanner.
To create handle, draw a line across tabletop 50mm from 1 end. Measure and mark 100mm from each side along this line. Using cordless drill fitted with 44mm hole saw, drill 2 holes through tabletop using these marks as centre points.
Draw lines between circles to join them. Using jigsaw, cut along these lines to remove timber and create a slot.
Draw a line across tabletop 150mm from the same end as you did in Step 1. Mark points 55mm from each side along this line. Using drill fitted with 57mm hole saw, drill 2 holes through tabletop using these marks as centre points.
Working from opposite end, mark a point in centre of tabletop 75mm from end. Using drill fitted with 86mm hole saw, drill a hole through tabletop using this mark as the centre point.
To create slots for glass- holders, measure 10mm on either side of the line drawn in Step 3. Draw a square line from side of tabletop to hole and cut along these lines. Repeat on other side of tabletop.
Round tabletop corners with jigsaw. Use sandpaper and sanding block to smooth all cut edges and to round off outside edges.
To taper leg, make marks on 1 end 25mm from each side and 175mm along side from this end. Join marks on end to marks on sides. At other end of leg, mark out for a rebate 150mm long and 35mm deep.
Use power saw to cut lines of rebate, stopping at corner where they meet. Use handsaw to finish cut here. Reserve offcut. Cut lines of taper.
On tapered end of leg, mark centre by drawing diagonals. Using 19mm spade bit, drill a hole 100mm deep in centre of leg, taking care to keep drill vertical.
At rebated end of leg, measure 15mm from end and 15mm from side of rebate and mark a point. Using 8mm drill bit, drill a hole through leg at this point.
Using sandpaper and sanding block, round corner adjacent to hole drilled in Step 10, making sure curve has a 15mm radius. This ensures leg will pivot correctly when assembled. Sand corner smooth.
Using offcut from rebate, cut mounting blocks to size. Give 1 end of mounting blocks a 45° cut. Drill an 8mm hole through centre of each block 40mm from square end. Drill pilot holes and countersink for screws through each block, ensuring you end up with blocks to match either side of leg.
Place leg down on underside of tabletop to determine position of mounting blocks. Use the thickness of a washer between leg and blocks to get correct spacing. Mark position of blocks, then remove. Spread PVA glue on bottom of blocks, place in position again, then rub along top slightly to start glue setting. Let glue partially set, then screw through mounting blocks with 40mm screws to tabletop to secure.
Use wood chisel to carve 1 end of spike to a point. Sand smooth. Put glue in hole in bottom of leg and insert spike. Leave to set.
Apply 2 coats of Cabot’s Stain & Varnish (we used Indian Tea) to top and leg. Let dry after each coat.
Use spanner to assemble leg to table with M8 x 100mm cup head bolt and nut and 8mm washers. Put a washer on each side of leg, between it and mounting blocks, and between mounting block and nut.